Whale of a Tale

Whale of a Tale

July 31, 2019

To celebrate my 44th birthday last February, my wife and four of our friends booked a last-minute Inspirato Jaunt™ vacation to Punta de Mita on the Pacific side of Mexico, 10 miles north of Puerto Vallarta. We enjoy vacations near water, and I’ve gotten into sport fishing the past few years, so it seemed like a perfect fit for our first Inspirato trip. We arrived at our five-bedroom Vista Bahia residence at Los Veneros Resort Residences and Beach Club to fresh margaritas, martinis, beers and meat prepped for grilling. There were floor-to-ceiling accordion doors leading outside, and the whole front of the residence opened up to a patio and a private pool overlooking the ocean. There seemed to be an endless supply of chips and salsa available at all times.

Each morning we awoke to the smell of breakfast being prepared by our personal chef who started our day with delicious pancakes, waffles, quiche and huevos rancheros. During the day we enjoyed couples’ massages and specialty cocktails while looking out over the Playa de Estiladeras. The nights that we weren’t grilling and relaxing by the pool, we went out for lobster dinners along Puerto Vallarta’s famed malecón, or boardwalk, a short drive away.

They took care of everything—I was never left wondering what would happen next. We even had a rental car delivered to us with such detailed instructions on where to go and how to get there that we had no problem navigating our way around the scenic peninsula. Sometimes it’s nerve-wracking trying to navigate in another country, but everything went incredibly smooth during our five-day stay.

The highlight of our visit was day three, when we took an all-day fishing charter out of the marina at Punta de Mita on a 35-foot-vessel. There were huge swells out on the open ocean, but our captain did a phenomenal job of maneuvering us through the chop. I can’t say enough about how fantastic the captain and crew of the Banderas in Paradise (BIP) charter were that day. I’ve been on fishing boats where no one really talks and there’s no effort to connect with you. This team was super supportive and made an effort to get to know us. They seemed to be having just as much fun as we were out there on the ocean. 

When I started reeling in a fish, the crew ran around the boat making sure there were no obstructions. I welcomed their assistance since I lost a marlin after 30 minutes of serious effort during a previous fishing charter because I gave the line too much slack. I didn’t want that to happen again. I was lucky enough to snag the largest of the four fish caught that day: a rooster fish that was about 4 feet long. My adrenaline was pumping. It was quite a birthday catch. On the water later that day, we also spotted two large humpback whales and a baby whale a mere 20 yards from the boat. Our boat looked small compared to this trio of giants. They swam right by us and would breach, splash, drop and shake their tails. It was very like something out of a National Geographic documentary, one mashed up with a SeaWorld show. At one point the whales glided through the water side-by-side, jumping and weaving back-and-forth between one another and truly showcasing their playful side. It was as if they knew that we were there to watch them and decided to put on a show for us.

Back at our residence, we sat out on the balcony and spotted a few more whales and dolphins popping up out of the water. We were thoroughly impressed. While talking with locals about our great sightings, we learned that we witnessed the tail end of the annual whale migration. The height of migration is a few weeks earlier and most whales have moved on by late-February. If we’d come just a little bit earlier, we might have seen ten times the number of whales. Whenever Kim and I get together with the other couples from the trip, we always talk about our day out on the boat and our desire to head back to Punta de Mita to see the whales again. In fact, by the time you read this, we’ll have probably already returned. 

Into the Wild

Into the Wild

July 29, 2019

When we flew into Nairobi last December, a host greeted my family and ushered us into two Jeeps stocked with cold beers and safari-style wide-brimmed hats. My husband and I booked the African safari as our first Inspirato trip, bringing along his parents and our three children. Our route to the hotel cut straight through Nairobi National Park. 

As soon we entered the park, my kids poked their heads out of the top of Jeep to snap photos of a lioness a mere 2 feet from our vehicle. We were still close enough to Nairobi to see the backdrop of the city, yet we were suddenly immersed in a jungle setting with a rhino and a pride of lions in the distance. It was completely wild and surreal. 

The next day we flew to the Chyulu Hills area and landed in the middle of the bush. Our driver and guide, Seki, a tall man with a big grin and calm and gentle presence, met us in a Land Rover with elevated seats and drove us through the flat, dusty plain to Ol Donyo Lodge. On the drive we saw zebras, elephants, and giraffes.

 At the hotel, you could see the watering hole used by the area’s elephants. Our rooms had a view of Mt. Kilimanjaro, private swimming pools, and a rooftop bed for sleeping under the stars. Two of the nights Seki took us out for “sundowners,” where he drove us out into the savannah and pulled out pewter cups for cocktails and a table for hors d’oeuvres. 

A surprising perk of the trip was having everyone unplugged from cell phones and iPads. My son Wilson, 22, made friends with the staff and went out to play volleyball in a rigged-up court out back. We read books by the pool and played cards as a family at night. There were horse stables right off the property, so we spent a day on horseback, viewing giraffes in the distance. 

My husband and I went mountain biking and saw a Maasai man dressed in red warrior-looking garb herding cattle across the plain. Young children ran alongside the cows and stopped to wave to us. We toured a Maasai village with mud huts. Women and children sold wares and my children bartered for knives and spears, which they somehow managed to get through customs on the way home.

On our fifth day of the trip, also Christmas morning, we boarded a charter flight to the Bateleur Camp. Our pilot flew low over the Maasai Mara Game Reserve, giving us a spectacular aerial view of hippos, elephants, and giraffes. It was one of the most exciting parts of the trip and something I will never forget. 

Just off the airstrip, our hosts set up a table with cookies, juice, and champagne. It was such a special greeting. Bateleur Camp was mostly wood and had an open-air living room and bar. Our fixed tents had thatched roofs and stone showers. I felt like I was on a movie set. Monkeys hung out in the trees and warthogs wandered across the lawn. 

Each day we headed out on game drives, traveling along bumpy dirt paths over rolling green hills. We witnessed a lion trying to chase down a zebra (the zebra got away), other zebras lingering near a river with more than 50 visible crocs, and two cheetahs eating the remains of a recent kill. We saw hundreds of elephants and got so close to giraffes that we could have touched them. 

Each day after the tours, we returned to the tents for a delicious family-style meal. I was a little concerned at first since my son and I are vegetarians, but our hosts were extremely accommodating and always made sure to offer us a meat-free option. For our Christmas dinner the tables were covered in rose petals and lined with candles and crystal, a beautiful experience. 

After arriving in Kenya, we learned about hot air balloon rides and decided to add it to our itinerary. Toward the end of our trip, we floated over the spectacular landscape at sunrise. Besides the noise of the balloon inflating, it was completely quiet and peaceful. I highly recommend it. 

I have my mother-in-law, Sally Knapp, to thank for giving us the idea for the trip. She’d previously attempted to organize a family safari about a decade ago and it never panned out. Now that she’s in her mid-70s, my husband and I really wanted to make it happen for her. We’re so glad we did. She loved it. It was the trip of a lifetime.

3 Tropical Family Getaways for Relaxation and Adventure

3 Tropical Family Getaways for Relaxation and Adventure

July 19, 2019

Families who vacation together, stay together. And whether they’re adventurers or relaxation-seekers, the following three locations have a variety of activities for everyone to enjoy.

1. Rosemary Beach, Florida

Idyllic. Charming. Timeless. All words often used to describe Rosemary Beach, a sandy-shore escape upon the warm waters of northern Florida’s Gulf Coast. Picture old world architecture reminiscent of Savannah, Ga.; Charleston, S.C.; and even parts of the colonial Caribbean. Stately homes are interlaced by cobbled walk ways, sunny pools, pocket parks and grassy knolls—all within a short walk to the lovely downtown, where boutiques, cafes, art galleries and a day spa present a chance to relax while away.

Located along scenic Highway 30-A, an 18.5-mile stretch of road that wends along strips of fine-sand coastline, through marshes and wetlands, past hardwood forest and coastal scrubland, Rosemary Beach is one of 11 communities connected by four state parks, 27 miles of greenway paths and dozens of beaches. In Rosemary Beach, favored for its sugar-sand and family embracing ethos, there’s much to do and see. Homeowners and guests receive a secure passcode for the beach gate, keeping crowds minimal. The fine sand trickles through your toes en route to the warm, crystalline water. Once in the ocean, you can see your toes, as well as the dozens of species of fish swimming alongside you, making for excellent snorkeling.  

An avid golf community, Rosemary Beach is close to several renowned local courses, including the Fazio-designed Camp Creek and the stunning Santa Rosa, with two holes abutting the Gulf of Mexico. And with water as clear as the Bahamas’, aspiring fishermen can catch a boutique charter right out of Rosemary Beach for an intimate ocean-fishing excursion, or make the 45-minute trip into Destin for a deeper-sea option. Expect plentiful cobia, tuna, amberjack and snapper. Those seeking time away from the sand will find refuge in one of Rosemary Beach’s four unique pools (see sidebar). A sure hit with kids of all ages, the pools are open to all Rosemary Beach homeowners and guests. A highlight here is sampling each pool and soaking in its unique flavor and vibe. Summertime family themed pool parties are always a hit, followed by beach bonfires with s’mores and moon – light crabbing on the wet sand with flashlights in hand. 

Ideal for families with school age children, the summer high season also brings kids camp sunny days filled with activities designed to introduce the younger set to the joys of the beach, from snorkeling to fishing to stand-up paddle boarding, a new sport that’s become a Rosemary Beach staple. Concerts on the Great Lawn, movies out under the stars and family-centric performances all summer long perpetuate Rosemary Beach’s idyllic summer ambience.

And while everything in Rosemary Beach is walkable, getting around is more fun on a beach cruiser. Local cycle shop 30-A Bikes will drop off and pick up cycles at your residence, and the more adventurous cyclists should know that all 18.5 miles of Highway 30-A is paved from end to end. Pedaling it—all or in part—is a great way to get the lay of the land. But the real Rosemary Beach magic transcends the golf, the fishing, the snorkeling and the sugary beach. At the end of the day, time spent in such a special place creates family memories worth keeping.  

Locally owned cafes and restaurants—no drivethroughs allowed here—offer a down-home culinary scene with something for all comers.

Places to Eat

  • Restaurant Paradis: Serves steaks and seafood in a fine dining setting. 
  • La Crema: This fun tapas bar serves up diverse wines, small bites and tempting chocolate desserts in an outdoor cafe style setting. 
  • Summer Kitchen Cafe and Restaurant: A casual cafe serving three meals a day. Also a popular brunch spot.  
  • Wild Olives Market: Stop at this market and deli for fresh soups, salads and sandwiches made in-house.  
  • George’s: Located in nearby Aly’s Beach, this seaside restaurant focuses on fresh ingredients and is known for its famous grouper sandwich.
  • Caliza: Also in Aly’s Beach, Caliza offers waterside dining surrounding its sleek infinity pool. 
  • Cafe Thirty-A: About 15 minutes from Rosemary Beach, this restaurant in Seagrove Beach consistently offers up some of the best food and service in the region.  

Where to Swim

  • Cabana Pool: Next to a playground, Cabana Pool has a shaded 12-inch-deep children’s wading pool and a large main pool that boasts a colorful Mediterranean design. 
  • Coquina Pool: Sitting beachside, Coquina is simple yet beautiful with an infinity edge and a large shallow end that makes it a family favorite.  
  • Sky Pool: This unusual pool features a closable roof that allows it to stay open year-round. 
  • Barbados Pool: With two pools inside a gated structure, this complex has a distinctive Caribbean design with plenty of shade and a vestibule fountain

2. Punta De Mita, Mexico

The wild, rugged beauty of Punta de Mita is often the first thing visitors notice. Only 50 minutes from the tourist capital of Puerta Vallarta, Punta de Mita seems a world away—which is exactly what makes it so special. 

We can thank, in part, geography: Punta de Mita sits on a 9-milelong peninsula that juts into the Pacific, replete with hidden coves, craggy coastline and sandy bay-front beaches perfect for lounging, splashing and sunning. One of Punta de Mita’s finest is Veneros Beach, on the northern edge of Banderas Bay. One mile of soft sand meets the gentle, warm waters of the bay and serves up all the activities a beach-seeking family with adolescent and teenage kids could want: boogie boarding at low tide, kayaking out past the breaks, stand-up paddle boarding, snorkeling, digging in the sand or just lounging in a chaise with a good book on an uncrowded strip of Pacific coastline. 

Punta de Mita is also one of Mexico’s top diving spots thanks to an underwater topography of arches and caves and plentiful coral reefs that attract diverse marine life. Even novice divers and snorkelers will find an excursion that meets their needs, including a tour to Las Marietas, rugged, uninhabited islands known as the “other Galapagos” thanks to their unique birdlife. Beneath the waves, look for dolphins, manta rays, sea turtles and colorful tropical fish such as pufferfish and damselfish. From December through March, whale-spotting cruises take over as the destination’s most popular diversion. The waters of Punta de Mita also hold a bounty for deep-sea fishermen hoping to catch their limit of sea bass, tuna, black and blue marlin, and red snapper.  

This beach vacation isn’t all about the water, though. Families with older kids can partake in a popular eco tour. These excursions introduce families to Punta de Mita’s pristine forests and inland parks of the verdant Sierra Madre Mountains. Visit up-and-coming San Pancho (also known as San Francisco), a quaint, artsy Mexican village still frequented by the native Hiuchol tribe. Or arrange for a hike or bike ride along the trails between Punta de Mita and surfing village Sayulita, then reward your brood with a taste of the local specialty: fresh coconut ice-cream pops dipped in Mexican dark chocolate. In or out of the water, you can’t go wrong.

Hot Tables 

  • Cafe des Artistes del Mar: Head to this gourmet bistrostyle restaurant for classically prepared fresh seafood and lovely views over the water. 
  • Señor: The Mexican menu features a healthy selection of seafood dishes in a space where almost every table enjoys an oceanfront view. 
  • Mariscos Tino’s: Savor very local flavors and preparations at this seafood restaurant, especially its pescado zarandeano, grilled sea bass with native spices.    
  • Casa Teresa: Homemade pastas and family recipes passed down through the generations characterize this cozy Italian cafe. Try the gnocchi or the eggplant Parmigiana.
  • Casiano’s: The epitome of the local experience; dine on Mexican tapas.  
  • Frascati Ristorante: This Italian clay oven puts out excellent pizzas and homemade pastas. 

The Price is Right 

  • Farmers’ Market in Punta de Mita: Local artists come here every Sunday from November through April to display their wares. Also try some fun regional tastes, such as banana cakes. 
  • Local Market in Bucerias: This is where you’ll find wood art sculptures, handcrafted silverware, pewter pieces, handmade bedspreads and all manner of Mexican artistry on display year-round. 
  • Galleria Tanana: Located in Sayulita, this spot is known for its authentic Huichol beadwork. 
  • San Pancho galleries: Local artists display their own work at several galleries in the craftsy town. 

3. Anguilla, British West Indies

What’s there to do on a coral-sand island a mere 16 miles around and 3 miles at its widest point? Plenty. Or, if you prefer, nothing at all. Tiny, laid-back Anguilla, located a few miles from St. Martin in the Caribbean Sea, is the northernmost island in the Leeward chain. On paper, this flat swath of beach doesn’t boast the geographical riches of some of its neighbors. It’s a good thing, then, that vacations don’t take place on paper. First among Anguilla’s assets are its 33 powder-sand beaches, gateways to the warm turquoise water that’s 80 degrees year round. Ideal for families with very young children, the gentle waves here invite sandcastle-making and safe splashing just off the shoreline. Families looking for some adventure can join a sailing or snorkeling excursion, perhaps coming face-to-face with historic shipwrecks (El Buen Consejo, a Spanish ship wrecked in the 18th century, is worth checking out), or boarding a Panga boat for a day of angling with a local captain. Not that you have to exert yourself. 

Anguilla’s crushed coral beach sand is slip-through-your-toes luxurious, and the island’s remoteness keeps the beaches blissfully uncrowded, even during high travel times. The largest beach is Rendezvous, wide and inviting, where one of the best beach bars on the island, Dune Preserve, provides a reggae soundtrack. Shoal Bay’s 2 miles of beachfront is known as one of the best in the world, where the water is so clear and blue it seems almost unnatural. More low-key and perfect for young families, Mead’s Bay offers a safe swimming area that’s separate from the rest of the beach. Moms and dads looking to get farther afield have more than a dozen near-deserted island cays at their disposal (see details above). 

We know Anguilla has killer beaches, but where this little island surprises most is what it offers on solid ground. Or rather, below it: caves. When the kids want a little mystery, families can seek out Big Spring Cave, a collapsed cavern that hides a natural spring where the native Arawak people sourced their fresh water more than a thousand years ago. The walls of the cave are covered with ancient petroglyphs called Spirit Eyes. One of the most dramatic caves is Fountain Bay, descending almost 100 feet into the earth. For young families, Cavanaugh Cave is ideal thanks to its smaller size and layout. Back in the sunshine, whether on beach or deserted cay, one thing is for sure: For all families, an Anguilla vacation promises as much adventure—or lack of adventure—as desired. 

Table Talk

  • Smokey’s at the Cove: Casual, on the beach, and serving local cuisine from pigeon peas and rice to jerk chicken to coconut shrimp, all accompanied by the beat of live island music. 
  • Picante: Hit up this Caribbean taqueria for fresh Mexican cuisine amped up with island spices. 
  • Blanchard’s: This is perhaps the classic Anguilla restaurant, located on the water in Mead’s Bay, known for stellar service and excellent American-Caribbean cuisine.

Paradise Found 

  • Sandy Island: As the name implies, this cay is made entirely of sand and is completely barren save for some palm and coconut trees. 
  • Prickly Pear Cay: Home to a reef that offers snorkelers the chance to see plenty of colorful fish, this little cay also has a restaurant that specializes in fish grilled over local coals. 
  • Scilly Cay: Smallest of the cays, Scilly has a restaurant known for its lobster and rum punch and a super-small but tranquil beach for sunning and swimming. 
  • Dog Island: Rocky and low-lying, Dog Island is home to several species of nesting sea birds, including Sooty Terns, Brown Boobies and Laughing Gulls.
  • Scrub Island: Lovely beaches and calm waters are the only amenities on this tiny, tranquil paradise at the eastern tip of Anguilla.

The Top Three Winter Vacation Destinations for Families

The Top Three Winter Vacation Destinations for Families

July 11, 2019

 You’ll feel it—perhaps as you sip an autumn cocktail al fresco. Faint at first, almost imperceptible, a breeze will catch the air and you’ll detect the slightest, fleeting chill of winter whispering its approach. When your mind begins to drifts to snow-capped peaks, stashes of powder and a crackling fire, then you know you’re ready for ski season. Planning the perfect ski vacation means matching the destination to the journey. Is this a family getaway, geared more to the s’mores than the slopes? Or is it the annual guys’ trip, skiing first chair to last going big before going home? Either way, you want to be certain that the mountain you choose is compatible with your crew. Here, we profile three distinct resorts that will answer all calls. 

Whistler Blackcomb, British Columbia

Stepping off the Whistler Village Gondola on a clear day feels a little like flying over Manhattan’s sprawling constellation of skyscrapers for the first time. The sight is overwhelming. Jagged, rock-peppered peaks and meringue-like snowcaps spread out in every direction. Immediately above you, Whistler Mountain scratches the clouds. Grande Finale, the black diamond centerline that slices the peak in half, draws your eye from the treeless summit down to the belt of densely packed pines that wrap the mountain below. Nineteen lifts climb every aspect of the peak, and more than 100 trails spill from its terminus. When breath returns to your lungs, you realize just how big Whistler is. And Whistler is only half the story. Turn around and you’ll see Blackcomb Mountain with 17 more lifts and 100 more trails. Together, Whistler and Blackcomb comprise the largest ski area in North America with more than 8,000 skiable acres.

With that much terrain, Whistler Blackcomb might be the only ski resort in the western hemisphere whose claim to have something for everyone is truly valid. Between the two mountains, experts could spend an entire week doing nothing but hiking and skiing high-alpine, treeless steeps and extreme terrain. Intermediates can explore all varieties of blue and black trails—from quad crushing mogul fields to sweeping boulevards purpose-built for high speed GS turns. Best of all, beginners and kids aren’t relegated to a small pocket of trails at the base. Gentle green roads and wide avenues traverse the lower half of both mountains.

The resort’s off-hill offerings are as equally abundant as the slopes. The modern, inviting base villages feature some of the best shopping and dining in skidom. The nightlife—which starts with après at the Giribaldi Lift Company or Merlins Bar & Grill and rolls into five-course dinners followed by wee-hours dancing—is unmatched in North America. A week in Whistler is a party— albeit a sophisticated one—that doesn’t stop. When breath returns to your lungs, you realize just how big Whistler is. And Whistler is only half the story. 

Trying to get the full Whistler Blackcomb experience without hiring a guide is a fool’s errand. For all the terrain that you can see, there’s twice as much that you can’t. Extremely Canadian, one of the industry’s first independent ski schools, runs steep skiing clinics and tours throughout the world but calls Whistler Blackcomb home. Among its impressive roster of guides are former pro athletes and ski film stars who get you up-close and personal with the resort’s two peaks. They’ll help you find the hidden nooks and crannies that only longtime locals know about. 

The resort’s proximity to the Pacific and the sheer size of the Coast Mountains lead to some strange weather patterns and inversions. It’s not unusual to experience gale-force winds on the peaks, sunny skies in the middle of the mountain and rain or fog at the base.

Go ahead; use the weather as an excuse to give your legs a break. Whistler’s Ziptrek Ecotour is a full- or half-day adventure perfect for older kids and thrill-seeking adults. On the way up the mountain, you’ll learn about the Coast Range’s unique temperate rain forest ecosystem. Then you’ll strap in and whiz back and forth across Fitzsimmons Creek on a series of ziplines, including one of the longest and highest in North America.

Hands down, the pinnacle experience for any skier is heliskiing, and British Columbia is the place to do it. The relatively stable snowpack and an abundance of heli operations in southwest B.C. make for an easy day-trip adventure that even strong intermediates can experience. Coast Range Heliskiing, which operates out of Pemberton, will pick you up at your hotel, equip you with safety gear and an experienced guide and then drop you high on a knife-edged ridge with thousands of untracked vertical feet at your ski tips.

The culinary scene in Whistler Blackcomb rivals those of most major cosmopolitan cities. Dinner at the Bearfoot Bistro is more than a meal; it’s an experience that starts with a tour of the enormous wine cellar, where you can try your hand at champagne sabering. Between courses of decadent handcrafted gourmet fare, step into the vodka ice room, where you can taste spirits from around B.C. and the globe. The night ends with ice cream prepared table side. 

Stowe Mountain Resort, Vermont

The very roots of American skiing cling to the soil beneath Stowe’s Mt. Mansfield. That’s where, in the 1930s, FDR’s Civilian Conversation Corps cut some of North America’s first ski trails in what became a symbiosis, of sorts. The New Deal propelled the development of the country’s first ski areas; in turn, a proud American brand of the greatest winter pastime was born in New England and helped to pull this nation out of the Great Depression. Today, resorts like Whistler and Jackson attract the most committed, dyed-in-the-wool skiers to whom little but sliding on snow matters. But it’s places like Stowe that made them that way. 

Gaze up at the Front Four, double-black-diamond trails that spill from Mansfield’s nose and you begin to appreciate Stowe’s legacy. The runs are narrow and steep relics of an era when every trail was cut by hand. Until a few years ago, most of Stowe’s slopes were at the mercy of often-fickle Mother Nature, which meant that learning to ski here meant learning to ski in the toughest conditions a skier can imagine.  

Surrounded by working farms and anchored by the 200-year-old bucolic town of Stowe—its clapboard storefront Main Street and rickety covered bridges movie-set perfect—Stowe is the quintessential family ski getaway. The dining scene covers the spectrum from simple to gourmet. Locally owned boutiques and galleries satisfy even Manhattan bred shoppers. The resort’s Mt. Mansfield to the south and beginner-friendly Spruce Peak to the north serve everyone from beginner to expert, and a midday rendezvous is easy thanks to the Over Easy gondola that connects the two base areas.  

Ask anyone who cut their teeth, and maybe some other body parts, on these slopes, and they’ll wax nostalgic about old Stowe as they lament recent upgrades—a massive snowmaking system, high-speed quads and gondolas, an enormous timber base lodge, significant slope grading and grooming, and real-estate sprawl—for stripping the resort’s rustic charm. But the truth is, those improvements have returned Stowe to its position at the top of America’s roster of must visit ski resorts, especially for anyone curious to know skiing the way it used to be while still enjoying modern comforts. 

Expert skiers can’t officially check Stowe off their list until they’ve skied The Front Four, preferably all in succession. National, Goat, Liftline and Starr demand a level of proficiency and pluck you cannot acquire on the machine-manicured boulevards out west. Ski them all to earn your Stowe stripes, recognized around the world… even in Jackson Hole 

Ever wonder what happened after Maria, the Captain and the Von Trapp brood climbed over the Austrian Alps? They settled in Stowe and opened the Trapp Family Lodge. Today, guests of the lodge and visitors can take part in a true Vermont tradition—maple sugaring. In the winter months, you can visit—by cross country skis or snowshoes, on foot or horse drawn sleigh— the original Trapp family sugar shack to see how maple syrup is made, taste samples, and take home your own bottle.

The very first ski trail cut on Mt. Mansfield was the Bruce Trail, which dates back to 1933. Although it’s not technically part of Stowe Mountain Resort, it remains a favorite sidecountry line that is easily accessed off the Toll Road trail. But the best part is that it descends to The Matterhorn restaurant and bar, Stowe’s best spot for après beers and—believe it or not—sushi.

No trip into or out of Stowe— or both—is complete with.out a stop at the Ben & Jerry’s ice cream factory in nearby Waterbury. Thirty-minute tours run daily every 30 minutes and give guests a peek at the production floor and a free taste of the flavor of the day. Before you leave, make sure to stroll through the Flavor Graveyard to pay your respects to the likes of From Russia With Buzz and The Full VerMonty 

Jackson Hole, Wyoming

You’d think Wyoming— sandwiched as it is between Colorado, Utah, Montana and Idaho, and spanned by sky-scratching Rocky Mountains— would be chock full of ski resorts. Nope. Not counting a handful of tiny, municipal hills, the state has exactly one destination resort. Given that, you might assume it’s crowded and free enough of competition to neglect things such as customer service and luxury amenities. Wrong again. 

Jackson averages fewer than 1,800 skiers a day, and they disperse quickly over 2,500 acres thanks to an impressive network of lifts. That’s fewer than two skiers per acre, and that’s only the in-bounds terrain. In 2000, Jackson was one of the first resorts in the U.S. to institute an open-gate policy, giving skiers lift-served access to extreme terrain beyond the boundary ropes. That’s where you’ll usually find the locals—and those who aspire to be locals. Considered a pioneer in the side country movement (now the fastest growing segment of the ski industry) and the mecca of extreme skiing, Jackson is home to few less-than-phenomenal athletes. Most locals ski only the resort after big storms. Once the inbounds powder is skied off, they head into the side- and backcountry.  

What does that mean for visitors? You shouldn’t sleep in, stop for lunch or get in anyone’s way on a powder day. Locals don’t suffer dawdlers. Whether to visit or to live, you come to Jackson because pushing the lim – its tops your to-do list. 

That’s not to say Jackson can’t be relaxing. Inti – mate and easy-to-navigate Teton Village, at the base of the ski mountain, has gone a long way to soften Jackson’s hard edges and counterbalance the frenetic pace of its ski hill. World-class spas, fine dining and a handful of shops and boutiques offer guests a much-needed breather, but the main attraction in Jackson will always be the skiing. 

If fresh snow fell last night, you’re already late. Book it to Jackson’s iconic tram, “the red heli,” and get in line. “First box” is at 9 and it’s 12 minutes to the summit. One hundred meters from the top, look down and left for a glimpse of Corbet’s Couloir, widely regarded as the most difficult marked ski trail in North America. Hint: Ski the mountain from looker’s left to right—the terrain gets gentler as you go. Your legs will thank you. 

Jackson’s base sits lower than most Rocky Mountain resorts’ at 6,300 feet, and its 10,450- foot summit isn’t particularly high. But the 4,139-foot vertical drop is impressive, unparalleled in the U.S., and explains why the pace on the mountain is so quick. No visit to Jackson is complete without a few leg-busting runs on the legendary Hobacks, a group of four relentless fall line steeps accessible from the Tram or the Sublet Quad. 

Jackson’s not the best place to strike out on your own the first time you visit. Luckily, some of the greatest skiers in the world don’t just live and ski here; they guide and teach guests. Olympic gold medalist Tommy Moe leads private mountain tours for intermediate and advanced skiers. And if you’re ready for something hairier, sign up for a guided backcountry tour or multi-day camp, where world-class ski-mountaineers will teach you how to safely navigate Jackson’s off-piste terrain beyond the resort boundary.

The Chill Spa, on the top floor of the ultra modern Terra Hotel, and the Four Seasons Spa—ranked number one in the U.S. by Travel + Leisure— offer full menus of body and facial treatments with stunning views of the slopes. Soak sore muscles in their infinity pools and rooftop hot tubs, and—if you’re feeling like a local— squeeze in a second workout in their state-of-the-art gyms.  

Reward yourself for a day’s hard work with dinner at Jackson’s premier awardwinning restaurant, Couloir, atop the Bridger Gondola. Chef Wes Hamilton sources sustainable, regional ingredients for his farm-totable menu that changes with the seasons but includes dishes like pan-roasted Snake River sturgeon and Idaho potato-wild mushroom perogies. Eat up. After the day you had—and the one that awaits tomorrow— you’re going to need it.

Why Turks and Caicos Should Be Your Next Beach Vacation

Why Turks and Caicos Should Be Your Next Beach Vacation

July 10, 2019

A short flight to worlds away, Turks and Caicos boasts endless stretches of secluded white sand beaches, world-class diving and a true island life demeanor. Visit Turks & Caicos Islands, and you’ll need to pack a color chart along with your swimsuit. How else to name the dozens of variations of blue that radiate out from the islands’ beaches? First, you’ll wade through inch-deep aquamarine. Then you’ll splash through cerulean, pale turquoise, light jade and cyan, before reaching a 7,000-foot-deep coral wall bathed in Prussian and cobalt blue. Out of the water, vast reaches of white sand beach, as fine as confectioner’s sugar, seduce visitors into long leisurely strolls. 

Whether you seek relaxation or ocean adventure, opportunity abounds—above and below the waves—in the Turks & Caicos Islands. Here is your guide to the best of this Caribbean jewel. 

Grace Bay Beach

Twelve-mile-long Grace Bay Beach earns its fame for wide, white stretches that go on and on, but it’s hardly Turks & Caicos’ only option. You’ll want to rent a car to visit Providenciales’ less-frequented gems. Here’s our Provo beach primer. 

Named for Lady Grace Hutchings, who honeymooned on the island in 1892 and reportedly charmed everyone she met, Grace Bay Beach is both the busiest part of the island and its most open and serene. Turtle Cove Marina gives the beach’s western end a more nautical feel, while the Leeward area on Grace Bay’s northeastern tip occasionally attracts a few scofflaw nude sunbathers. 

Long Bay Beach

For isolation, there’s no better choice than this three mile stretch along Provo’s southeastern shore, which opens onto the glimmering Caicos Bank. Instead of sacking out on a towel, consider a horseback ride in the surf with Provo Ponies.

Chalk Sound Area Beaches 

The small beaches at Sapodilla Bay and Sunset Bay (a.k.a. Taylor Bay) on Provo’s southern shore are mostly used by nearby villas. Just behind them, the road cuts through Chalk Sound National Park, a three-mile inland waterway, where locals like to say there’s a cay for each day of the year. Once you’re done driving, swimming or sunbathing, stop at the bottom of Sapodilla Hill on South Dock Road and follow the trail to the top to find rocks engraved by shipwrecked sailors, dating back to 1767. 

Malcolm’s Road 

This comparatively “short” two-mile beach is the hardest to reach on the island, but that’s how it stays pristine. To find it, take the nominally paved Blue Hills Road past Wheeland, and then follow signs for Northwest Point Marine National Park. Scuba divers visit daily for the coral, but the above-water beach is just as pretty. The chaises on the beach’s southern tip belong to the Amanyara resort, an ideal stopping point for lunch.

Blue Hills Beach

At 161 feet above sea level, Blue Hills isn’t just the oldest settlement in Provo, it’s the highest spot in all of Turks & Caicos. Take in vast views of the coast from Blue Hills Road, which runs along the coast, and enjoy a swim at any of the pocket beaches along the way. Stop for a tasty conch dish at any of the local shacks dotting the roadside to refuel. 

Singin’ the Blues

The 40-island, 100-mile archipelago has 230 miles of white sand beaches. Visitors tend to stay on Providenciales (better known as “Provo”) and the legendary Grace Bay Beach (left). But all of the islands are equally accessible by air or ferry, each offering its own unique charms. 

Diving

This morning, I’m on Big Blue Unlimited’s 40-foot Live & Direct, racing across the Caicos Bank, off Provo’s southern shore, to neighboring French Cay. Perhaps I’d be feeling more serene if the dive master hadn’t just told us the island was once home to 17th-century pirate François L’Olonnois, who used it as a base for plundering passing Spanish ships. As the story goes, L’Olonnois was such an accomplished torturer that he wouldn’t just cut the hearts out of prisoners; he’d eat them, still beating, while others watched.

Of course, all of that washes away as we descend beside the boat. Beneath the water, 80 percent of French Cay is encrusted with coral. We start at a site called Double D (named for two large underwater humps), where we swim past three-foot groupers, four-foot barracudas and barrel sponges the size of cars. A trumpetfish cruises by, big as a bassoon, and the horse-eye jacks number in the thousands. Spiny lobsters and green moray eels lurk inside holes, while purple-and-yellow fairy basslets, blue chromis and bright red cardinal fish transform the water into a confetti of color. Our second dive is at G-Spot (this time named for the gorgonian corals, the size of garage doors), and we immediately descend upon a passing Caribbean reef shark, which graciously fins out of our way. Then a spotted eagle ray swims past us, followed by a pair of hawksbill turtles. Three more reef sharks glide over the wall; another ray trails behind, with a remora dangling from it. Yet back on-board the Live & Direct, no one is impressed. A “good” dive here, I’m told, starts with a dozen eagle rays or sharks.

What makes diving in Turks & Caicos so stunning is the combination of clear water with visibility sometimes topping 150 feet, the planet’s third-largest reef system with 196 square miles of reef, and the fact that there are so many distinct marine parks and sites in the archipelago to explore. After French Cay, my favorite area to dive is Northwest Point Marine National Park, off Provo’s northwest tip, where getting caught in the eye of a few hundred spiraling jacks is fairly typical, and I’ve sometimes felt stuck inside a fish stampede. But there are also the dozen sites in West Caicos Marine National Park, chockablock with snappers, stingrays, hogfish and puffers, and Princess Alexandra Land and Sea National Park, which encompasses Grace Bay Beach, and is ideal for novice and night dives alike. The last time I dived there, after dusk, the trevally were so plentiful I could actually reach out and touch them 

And that’s just the western chain of islands. Heading east across the 22-mile-wide Turk Island Passage (you’ll want to go by plane), the archipelago’s capital of Grand Turk sits high atop many must-dive lists, while Salt Cay, eight miles south, is the archipelago’s best place to spot the North Atlantic herd of 2,500 humpback whales each year, from early January to mid-April. Turks & Caicos is one of the few places in the world where captains and snorkelers are legally allowed to approach the whales—and even if you don’t see them, you can’t miss hearing their songs underwater. 

Beyond Provo, the other islands of Turks & Caicos are worth exploring, either as day trips or overnight. Here are some favorites you need to see.

Little Water Cay

Home to 2,000-plus endangered rock iguanas, many measuring two feet in length. The horned creatures mostly scurry across rocks, while visitors stick to a well-maintained boardwalk, five minutes by boat from Provo’s Leeward Marina. 

North Caicos

A 12-minute flight from Provo or 25-minute ferry from the Leeward Marina, North Caicos is home to most of the archipelago’s farms. But you’ll also find a few thousand pink flamingos, outstanding snorkeling at Three Mary Cays, jaw-dropping Horsestable Beach and eerie plantation ruins at Wades Green; Big Blue Unlimited runs day trips on bikes.

Salt Clay

Once the world’s leading salt producer, the 2.5-squaremile island today is a quiescent collection of salt ponds, 19th-century stone and stucco buildings, and wild donkeys and cows (which have the right of way). From midJanuary to early April, Salt Cay is also Turks & Caicos’ prime spot for watching whales.

Middle Caicos

The largest of the chain, 48-square-mile Middle Caicos is a 15-minute flight from Provo, or a half-hour drive from North Caicos’ ferry terminal. Hike the five-mile Crossing Place Trail, swim and snorkel in the natural lagoon at Mudjin Harbour, or explore three-square-mile Conch Bar Caves, the largest above-ground cave system in Turks & Caicos or the Bahamas, with blind fish and shrimp, and several thousand flapping, squealing bats. 

Big Sand Cay

Seven miles south of Salt Cay, this island’s beach is one of Turks & Caicos’ least visited and finest. Loll on the sand, and then explore the lighthouse ruins and two abandoned bunkers marked “Keep Out. U.S. Government Property.” Whether you do is strictly up to you. Trips leave from Salt Cay. 

Grand Turk

Scuba divers flock here and cruise ships dock here, but Grand Turk’s charms extend beyond both. Founded by Bermudian salt rakers in 1681, the island’s capital, Cockburn Town, is the archipelago’s historic, political and administrative center, with weathered colonial buildings and the national museum along its streets.

Watersports

 Beyond diving and snorkeling, Turks & Caicos is famous for other watersports, especially fishing. For light-tackle trolling, deep-sea-, fly-, bottom- or bone-fishing in Provo, try Silver Deep or Hook’em Fishing Adventures. Dedicated anglers should also consider spending a few days at North Caicos’ Bottle Creek Lodge. For wakeboarding, surfing, kiteboarding, waterskiing and tubing, try Nautique Sports. For sailing, Beluga Private Charters is ideal. Top dive center Big Blue Unlimited also offers stand-up paddleboarding and kayaking. Bred-in-the-bone extremists need look no further than Caicu Naniki for guided swim safaris and free-diving classes or excursions—as well as for Middle Caicos trail treks or runs. But if your goal is simply to relax, the open-air cabanas at Provo’s Thalasso Spa at Point Grace will keep you floating blissfully. 

The Luxury Golf Experience at the Kapalua Resort

The Luxury Golf Experience at the Kapalua Resort

July 8, 2019

Situated along Maui’s northwest shore, the five-star Kapalua Resort is an eco-chic paradise that blends harmoniously into the surrounding rain forest. Every amenity is thoughtfully provided for at Kapalua, including a wide variety of lodging, dining and shopping to suit any style, and an award-winning spa that makes use of indigenous products and individualized treatments to soothe mind and body.

Best of all, this 22,000-acre former pineapple plantation is a year-round, world-class golf destination all on its own. Kapalua’s two Tour-proven courses—the Plantation Course and the Bay Course—make excellent use of the island’s diverse topography, tropical setting and consistently beautiful weather to provide an unparalleled golf experience. Add in the world renowned Kapalua Golf Academy, and there’s simply no better setting for golf on the planet.

Kapalua’s two courses—one nestled into the mountains and the other stretched along the bay—offer completely unique experiences, vastly different challenges and wonderful layouts. And if you play different tee boxes from one round to the next, you’ll never see the same shot twice.

The weather is as consistently predictable as the great golf at Kapalua, with highs that typically remain in the mid-80s and lows that rarely dip below 65 degrees. No matter what time of year you play Kapalua, count on clear skies and a brief shower at some point during the day. Locals call these brief bursts “liquid sunshine” because the sun continues to shine through the sporadic rain clouds, which come and go within minutes and refresh the landscape.

The Plantation Course

Meandering through the West Maui Mountains, the Plantation Course at Kapalua perpetually ranks among the world’s best. It hosts the season-opening PGA Tour event every year— the Hyundai Tournament of Champions—where only winners from the previous year’s PGA Tour events are afforded the opportunity to play the par-73, 7,411-yard course that was co-designed by Ben Crenshaw and Bill Coore in 1991.

The layout boasts wide fairways and large greens that readily accommodate shots influenced by the steady 15- to 30-miles-per-hour trade winds, especially at the course’s higher elevations. The holes are contoured and sloped to gently (and sometimes dramatically) move errant shots back toward the fairway, and golfers generally find that the north-to-south direction of these prevailing winds helps their game. The occasional Kona breezes from the south, on the other hand, can turn some of the Plantation’s longer holes into outright marathons.

Speaking of long, the 18th hole—the Plantation’s longest— stretches a massive 663 yards from its tips but is all downhill. Take in the staggering view from the elevated tee box, which may be the single-best vantage point on the entire island, and then send your drive toward the horizon. Golfers frequently find their drives landing in the spacious fairway and then bouncing and rolling well beyond their normal tee-shot distance.  Overall, guests find the course very playable with opportunities to score well. Tour pros typically do well here as well, as the course is among the Tour’s most forgiving. 

At last count, there were 97 bunkers throughout the course. While strategically placed and penal, many of them are avoidable because of the vast fairways. The recently renovated greens feature new Bermuda grass that can be mowed to a tighter height and allow for a truer roll. Greens here play fast and have plenty of undulation. Playing the course more than once, as well as making use of local knowledge on the greens, is the surest way to shoot low. After the round, bets are often settled at the Plantation House Restaurant in the grand clubhouse, which is consistently ranked as one of Maui’s top dining experiences. It’s a soothing blend of Hawaiian hospitality, great food, casual atmosphere and incredible views. Time your round to end later in the day, and you’ll witness breathtaking sunsets over the Pacific with views of neighboring islands Molokai and Lanai in the distance.

The Bay Course

The Bay Course stretches 6,600 yards along the rugged shoreline with sweeping ocean views and a player-friendly layout that affords golfers the opportunity to score well. This par-72, Arnold Palmer-Francis Duane designed course opened in 1975, and is the epitome of a Hawaiian resort-style course with its rolling terrain, an abundance of water hazards, 68 bunkers and consistent winds that blow right down to the shore. Holes are routed through towering palms and flowering hibiscus, and some along the front nine border picturesque homes owned by celebrities. 

The scenic par-3 fifth is Maui’s only hole that plays directly over the ocean, and in this case requires golfers to carry their tee shots over the gorgeous Oneloa Bay. While the front nine snakes around the heart of the resort and the on-property RitzCarlton, Kapalua, the back nine meanders through elevation changes, hills and barrancas, with postcard-perfect views of the island’s natural splendor. Most of the backside is sheltered from the trade winds—that is, until the closing trio. The 16th hole features a carry over a pond onto a split fairway, and is regarded as one of Hawaii’s best par 4s. No. 17 is a par 3 that’s protected by two large bunkers on the front side, and the par-5 18th hole can play longer or shorter depending on the prevailing winds. 

The Bay is a championcaliber course that plays host to the PGA Tour’s Kapalua International tournament, and is also the former host site of an LPGA event. But with its stunning ocean views, predictable winds and friendly terrain, it remains a perennial favorite among golfers of all skill levels.

Train with the Pros at the Kapalua Golf Academy

As great as the golf is at Kapalua, the resort’s world-renowned instruction program may be even better. Set near the resort’s entrance, this state-ofthe-art teaching facility features a 2,500-squarefoot learning center, 85,000-square-foot grass teeing area with range and targets, greenside and fairway bunkers, practice putting greens, a three-hole walking course, 18- hole putting course and much more. 

No wonder GOLF Magazine ranks Kapalua Golf Academy among its “Top 25 Golf Schools” in America. The indoor/outdoor hitting bay is replete with an advanced digital video analysis system, and the experienced staff is made up of PGA Professionals who communicate well and can assist with expert instruction and club fitting. Individual or group lessons can be customized to suit your needs, and the various clinics range from a half-day up to a full week. Your game will improve after a visit to the Kapalua Golf Academy.

Why Lake Tahoe is the Best Place for your Next Vacation

Why Lake Tahoe is the Best Place for Your Next Vacation

July 5, 2019

Lake Tahoe is a gorgeous freshwater lake nestled in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, known for its skiing and beaches. Surrounded by state parks and plenty of places to stay, this vacation hotspot has grown in popularity over the years. If you’re thinking about visiting, here are a few of the things you need to do there.

Tubing at Heavenly

Heavenly boasts the mother of all tubing hills. With five 500-foot-long lanes and a stomach-reeling 65-foot vertical drop, this is the biggest tubing setup on the West Coast. You’ll find it at Adventure Peak, where there’s also sledding and ski-bike rentals along with spectacular views of Lake Tahoe during the gondola ride up. Heavenly’s base village lies in the heart of South Lake Tahoe, with shopping and restaurants aplenty. When you’re ready to take a break from all the down-on-the-ground action, head to the South Lake Tahoe Airport, about a 10-minute drive, for a scenic tour with Reno Tahoe Helicopters. Your kids will be thrilled to don headsets and hover in the air; and everyone will enjoy a bird’s-eye perspective of the lake and the Sierra peaks.

Fly Through the Sky at Kirkwood

The newest member of the Vail Resorts family, Kirkwood is a great place for kids to go fast and furious. Open weekends and holidays, the Kids’ Adventure Zone at the Timber Creek base area combines tubing, sledding and—extra cool—a place for kids to drive mini-snowmobiles around a track (as long as they’re under 100 pounds). But how about zooming through the air? The recently built Zip Tahoe, for ages 8 and up, has eight ziplines and three sky bridges that run above the forest along the ski area slopes. Taking zippers as high as 75 feet above ground and as fast as 35 miles per hour is thrilling and most certainly not for the faint of heart. 

The Ultimate Après-Ski Hangout at Northstar

The Village at Northstar is the most happening place for kids to hang out in Tahoe when the lifts shut down. A 9,000-square-foot ice skating rink anchors the scene, surrounded by cabanas and fire pits that families stake out starting in the mid-afternoon. If you notice an alien elbowing aside your s’mores stick, don’t panic—it’s just Northstar’s mascot Marty the Martian, who entertains daily during après-ski. Kiosks in the plaza sell crepes, waffles and other tasty snacks, and the Rubicon Pizza Company is often packed with youngsters when it’s time for something more substantial. Northstar offers tubing for on-snow family fun, but if your kids don’t mind propelling themselves by their own power, check out the mid-mountain Nordic center. Guided family snowshoe tours run along the center’s trails once a month and end with hot chocolate and cookies. Or for something different, you can test your family collaboration and treasure-hunting skills by geocaching on snowshoes or cross-country skis; several caches are hidden just off the Nordic trails, and the center rents GPS units.

Snowmobiles and Swimming at Squaw Valley/Alpine Meadows

Last year’s merger between these two adjacent resorts was big news, but for now Squaw remains the top draw for off-slope kids’ activities. At the base area SnoVentures zone, kids ages 6 to 12 can ride their own mini snowmobile around a track to get a taste of big mountain adventure. It’s a blast for parents too, as they’ll no doubt watch the video of their burgeoning motorhead for years to come. Kids may not believe it when they hear they can swim on the mountain, but it’s true: Squaw’s legendary mid-mountain High Camp complex has a large free-form pool and a hot tub, as well as a skating rink that’s open all winter. Because High Camp can be accessed via Squaw’s aerial tram, it’s a good place to hang out on a non-ski day while still being in the mountain environment. Several restaurants and cafes offer breakfast and lunch here as well.

The Star Wars Experience at Sierra-at-Tahoe

At this laid-back resort just south of the lake, kids ages 3 to 6 don’t have to be huge fans of Luke Skywalker, or even know what a Jedi is, to love the Burton Star Wars Experience. They just need a snowboard and a sense of adventure. Opened last January, this collaboration between Burton Snowboards and Lucasfilm is designed specifically for peewee shredders. They’ll start indoors on a special balance board, then quickly progress to the mini-terrain park outside, with decorated Star Wars characters and interactive features that help kids learn to maneuver and control their snowboards. And the boards have retractable leashes so instructors can tow toddlers who haven’t quite mastered the art of sliding on their own. Sierra also has Blizzard Mountain, a great option for young kids who aren’t ready to ski or board. Located next to the base, it has a gentle tubing hill and a snow play area.

Six Spectacular Holiday Destinations for Your Family

family-holiday-ski-hero

Six Spectacular Holiday Destinations for Your Family

June 20, 2019

The holiday season means something different for everyone. But no matter your point of view, it is a time to celebrate and reflect with the people you love. Whether you’re looking for a big family celebration, a quiet couple’s escape or a unique cultural exploration, ’tis the season to get away and share an unforgettable holiday adventure. So gather your nearest and dearest and go make some memories.

1. Party in Paradise: Tortola, British Virgin Islands.

Forget the snow report. Take your New Year’s celebration to the beaches of the BVI. From your pool villa on Tortola, you can contemplate your options for December 31. The big event happens on the tiny outpost of Jost van Dyke, where people from all over the world come for the raucous annual “Old Year’s Night” party at Foxy’s Bar. Jost is reachable only by boat, so charter a sailboat and arrive a day early to secure a spot in Great Harbour, where the 500 slips fill up quickly. For a more low-key scene, Trellis Bay on Beef Island, which is attached to Tortola, is the way to go. The family-friendly celebration starts at noon, but the fireworks and fire dancers continue after dark to remind everyone that the new year is once again upon them.

2. Fresh Cultural Perspectives: London, England.

A journey overseas is certain to deliver on lasting memories, and immersion into a unique culture will only enhance. Try London for Diwali, the Indian festival of lights which marks a new year in the Hindu calendar. The most well-known party happens in Trafalgar Square, where revelers can taste Indian food and watch modern and traditional dance performances. For a more intimate experience, head to the Punjabi community of Southall to shop for sweets (try the Chhappan Bhog shop) and absorb the sights and smells of Broadway, the lively main drag. Keep your camera handy: Between the blinged-out facade of the Vishwa Hindu Mandir temple, the homemade fireworks, and the flickering candles and oil lamps along the side streets, there’s no shortage of eye candy.

3. Heritage Meets History: Chicago, Illinois.

Chicago has its classic holiday hotspots, like the Lincoln Park Zoo with its shimmery light show set to music, and the Millennium Park Skating Rink, where you can glide within view of the city skyline. Add a layer of culture by visiting during Kwanzaa to reflect on the holiday’s central themes of unity, creativity and the importance of family. The DuSable Museum of African American History is the Windy City’s Kwanzaa hub: This year they’ll host a pre-holiday event with music, dance and spoken-word performances, along with daily candlelighting ceremonies all week long. Should you get snowed in by one of the city’s signature storms, you’ll be glad you booked a suite with a fireplace and a river view: Suddenly, room service.

4. Food, Fun, Family, Sun: Hilton Head, South Carolina.

You’ll have much to be thankful for if you opt for a November trip to Hilton Head Island. Sunshine is plentiful and fall temps hover in the 60s and 70s, making it an ideal time for golfing, biking or collecting shells on the beach. Feeling game? Players of all levels can enter the David M. Carmines Memorial Tennis Championship at Palmetto Dunes, which is consistently ranked as one of the country’s top places to play. For the main meal, ditch the dirty dishes and hire a private chef to commandeer your villa’s kitchen for the day. Or drive east to Savannah, where Paula Deen serves a classically Southern spread at her The Lady and Sons restaurant. You’ll leave with a new appreciation for the phrase “food coma.”

5. Just the Two of Us: South Beach, Miami.

A sexy suite high above South Beach might be an unexpected vantage point for celebrating Hanukkah. But once you try it, we bet it will become an annual tradition. This year, the holiday overlaps with Art | Basel, the most renowned show of its kind in the country. And between the chic Shops at Bal Harbour, where biggies like Marc Jacobs and Stella McCartney are represented, and the converted warehouses of the Design District, famous for its eclectic mix of home-furnishings designers, you’ll easily cobble together eight nights’ worth of glamorous gifts.

6. Idyllic White Christmas: Whistler Blackcomb, British Columbia.

Rugged enough for skiing and snowboarding addicts, urbane enough for foodies and fashionistas, and just plain fun for the kids, Whistler is the type of destination that can please almost anyone. Book a slopeside château for the family and start some new holiday traditions, like Canadian Guided Tours’ dogsled run. After zooming through an old-growth forest, your guide will give you a turn at the reins. Keep Christmas dinner stress-free, whether you dine out (try Araxi or Bearfoot Bistro) or bring in a chef from Whistler Cooks Catering to wow your crowd with pan-seared halibut or hazelnut-crusted venison. Food and fun aside, the real bonus of spending a big family Christmas here is that you’re guaranteed a white one.

There’s nothing quite like a white Christmas. Take a family trip to Vail, Colorado or Whistler Blackcomb for a picture-perfect snowy holiday adventure

Fishing Tips from Families That Love to Fish

Fishing Tips from Families That Love to Fish

June 17, 2019

There is something inherently familial about fishing. Maybe it’s because most of us get introduced to the sport by our dads or grandparents or a favorite uncle. There’s something reassuring about making a cast or feeling a fish tug at the end of a line. Maybe it’s because fishing, like family time, can sometimes be frustrating and lead to cursing fits; yet we always— happily—come back to it.

For many families (especially the one I married into) angling along the Big Wood River, which runs past America’s original ski resort of Sun Valley and right through the heart of central Idaho, is a big part of their heritage.

“The Big Wood River is a great place to learn how to fish, especially fly fish, with its easy access and abundant, aggressive fish,” says Dave Faltings, when asked why “The Wood,” as locals sometimes call it, is so popular with families. Faltings knows. He has been managing the guides at the world-famous Silver Creek Outfitters in Ketchum for over a quarter of a century now.

Faltings explains that because of its diverse regulations—some stretches are catch-and-release only, while others are stocked regularly and allow healthy bag limits—the Big Wood has long been an extremely popular fishery for anglers of all kinds.

“It’s a really diverse river,” he says. “It’s nice for kids and fun for families who want to keep fish because there are places where it’s allowed. But it’s also a great place to learn to fly fish, because it’s a healthy freestone river so you don’t have to be perfect to catch a fish like you do on spring creeks. And there are also a lot of wild fish, which appeals to seasoned anglers.”

For all the aforementioned reasons, plus its numerous easy-access points along Idaho’s Scenic Highway 75 and close proximity to the world-class resort community of Ketchum Sun Valley, anglers of all ages and abilities return to The Wood year after year. And for five generations now, my family has been casting amongst them.

So when I take my two young sons, Jack and Sam, down to the river or to one of several “kids’ ponds” sprinkled near its banks, it dawns on me that what we’re doing consists of a lot more than fishing. Like many kids, my dad taught me how to fish … but that took place far away from the Northern Rockies. “Pops” would take my brothers and me out along the rocky shores south of Boston to drown worms for flounder, or to Sandy Neck along Cape Cod to shore-cast for stripers.

I don’t remember the catching ever being too good or ever thinking about how lucky I was to be fishing. But I do remember the thrill of feeling a fish fight against my line: the mystery, the challenge, the long periods of quiet waiting interrupted by bursts of excitement.

Now, decades later, I find myself casting on waters of a much different sort. I traded the saltwater tackle for a fly rod, the worms for wooly buggers, the salty sea for the swift currents of Rocky Mountain rivers. And now it’s my turn to be dad, passing on the gift of fishing. Yes, the gift.

And like a lot of dads in this situation I occasionally feel overwhelmed—not just by all the gear, extra clothing and wind knots from hell you have to deal with, but by how much there is to teach my young sons, beyond cinch knots, how to cast or the proper way to handle and release trout.

The Big Wood is, after all, the same river where their grandpa fished each summer when he was a boy and where he was first introduced to fly fishing by his own grandparents, who would come over from eastern Idaho each year to fish the picturesque trout stream. So I must teach them to treat the river with respect.

The Wood is the river where their grandma fished as a child herself. She and her sisters would be roused out of bed by her dad “at some Godforsaken hour to go catch trout,” she says. Raised on farms not far from the river’s banks, their grandma ate so much trout as a child she can’t even stand the smell of it now. So my boys must learn to appreciate the river, how it flows through our family heritage and all that it provides—which is far more than food and fun.

If trout are your favorite sport fish, then you’ll have a hard time finding a better place to angle than the Sun Valley, Idaho, area. The region offers nearly year-round easy access to spectacular fisheries like the Big Wood River, the Copper Basin and the blue ribbon, spring-fed Silver Creek. Countless mountain streams and lakes teeming with trout are tucked into the mountain ranges encircling Sun Valley: the Boulders, the Pioneers and the Sawtooths. It’s easy to find a quiet place to cast.

With long, warm days, summer is peak season on Silver Creek, the landmark preserve famous for its monstrous rainbow and brown trout as well as its mind-blowing mayfly hatches like the brown drake. East of Sun Valley, Copper Basin is a secluded spot well worth the excursion. Three species of trout beckon anglers to isolated waters with a great mix of pools, pocket water, riffles, and runs.

The Big Wood and a small stretch of Silver Creek remain open to fly fishing through the autumn, which can be downright fantastic as the leaves fade and drop from the trees and hungry trout rise to midges and blue-winged olives. Even the winter angling (catch and release, barbless hooks only) on the Big Wood River can be terrific, so long as it’s not too cold for down jackets and long johns. Midday and, surprisingly, snowy days are best. Double Headers—fishing and skiing in the same day—are quite common for Wood River Valley residents and visitors.

The Big Wood closes for spawning from April 1 until Memorial Day weekend. These early spring days beckon anglers north toward Stanley and Challis to chase after the seasonal sea run trout known as steelhead that make their way up the Salmon River.

These are the same fishing holes where their East Coast, Big City granddad learned the simple joy of casting a fly rod amongst the glorious backdrop of crystal clear water coursing through the mountains. It’s also their dad’s other “office.” It’s where I sneak off for a couple of hours of mental health now and again, and why I usually come back smiling. For just like other rivers much more famous than the Big Wood, there’s something magical and healing about its waters. So my boys need to learn to enjoy it all, for that’s what fishing and being a kid—heck, a human being—is really all about.

It’s during those quiet moments, when the river and the wind whisper and my son quietly and sincerely scouts the water that I’m reminded there are times in life when it’s best to just shut up and fish. And I’m reminded of the joy of simply being, and sharing, and that there are few better places on earth to do so than the Big Wood River.